What does a 21st-century cinnamon bun owe its public? Is goo and glaze enough? For Brooklyn baker Sarah Magid, who launched Knead Love Bakery from her Greenpoint apartment in 2019, the pastry should also be whole-grain, nutrient-dense, naturally fermented for four-to-eight hours, and incorporate enough local ingredients to support the regional economy and merit a recently launched stand at the Union Square Greenmarket. Magid’s Cinny Bun is all these things. And, like the rest of her repertoire, it’s gluten free, which has made the baker a cult hero of sorts for those who follow that diet. But that shouldn’t deter anyone else. In fact, two non-vegan gluten-eating cinnamon-bun aficionados tried the thing the other day and were pretty much blown away. You should know that comparing a Cinny Bun to a traditional cinnamon bun is a bit of an apples-to-oranges assignment. Both contain cinnamon and both are buns, but that is where the similarities end. A Cinny Bun seems to us more like a cross between an oat-bran muffin and sticky toffee pudding, if that’s possible. Or maybe it’s like a maple-cinnamon scuffin. Whatever it is, it’s fantastic: petite in stature but surprisingly hearty with a pleasingly dense and grainy texture. Yes, we said pleasingly dense and grainy although those aren’t descriptors anyone associates with pastry greatness. But why not? Light, airy, flaky, and tender aren’t everything. Viva the alt-flour revolution.

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